Mallow Borough Market Review

Mallow is from the team behind Mildreds a renowned chain of vegan restaurants born in 1988, with locations dotted around London. With humble beginnings as a vegetarian restaurant, they have become completely plant-based since 2021 as well as having a commitment to source their ingredients responsibly, locally, seasonally, and with organic produce where possible. With Mallow having Borough Market at their doorstep produce can often be sourced from their doorstep.

Mallow Restaurants. Image courtesy of Mallow.

There is a strong development team behind the brand led by Sarah Wasserman and her team, the menu reflects as much in spades. I am always wary of fusion menus gone wild and prefer a combination of two cuisines at most hence I approached Mallow with apprehension. Perusing the menu in advance I could see influences coming from here, there, and everywhere and wondered if this could be brought together in a cohesive manner.

I meandered through Borough market on the Friday headed for a late lunch but not without a stop at Drunk Cheese to purchase a slice of their Basajo, a decadent sweet wine-soaked cheese, and I proudly managed to stroll past a row of Bread Ahead’s Crème Brulée doughnuts without purchasing a few to bring home (It’s not often I manage to walk on by). We are now very firmly in foodie territory.

Mallow Borough Market. Image credit MTotoe.

Mallow is housed in a beautiful two-story corner building opposite Southwark Cathedral proudly standing as the area’s first fully plant-based restaurant. Following its success, the all-day dining restaurant has expanded to Canary Wharf. The building exterior is a looker featuring organic line style wall illustrations of flowers. Illustrations continue inside of birds, insects & fully edible plants & flowers climbing up the stairs,around corners and across wood panelled walls. The décor is fun and fresh. Downstairs in the Roots Room, the space features a counter with barstool seating and square tables lining one side of the room complemented by a fresh, daytime colour palatte of blue ceilings, bentwood chair seats, and cosy banquette cushions. Upstairs, The Floret Dining Room is a high-ceilinged dining room boasts large windows overlooking the cathedral and the Shard in the distance set against a dark dusty pink colour scheme.

We arrived mid-afternoon and the room was buzzing perhaps a late Friday lunch crowd, but more likely Mallow stays consistently busy with their all-day offerings. We left our choices to the selection on the “Taste of Mallow Sharing” menu. Beginning with flatbread served soft and warm, a perfect accompaniment to the first three small dishes of White Bean Confit Garlic Hummus: citrus almond pesto tempered curry leaf oil, Sweet Potato Pepper Mojo: smoky salsa macha, candied quinoa & the Fennel, Citrus Salad: bitter leaves, caper bagna càuda, fried capers. The trio of dishes looked beautiful together on the table with flavours and textures to match.

White Bean Confit Garlic Hummus: citrus almond pesto tempered curry leaf oil, Sweet Potato Pepper Mojo: smoky salsa macha, candied quinoa & the Fennel, Citrus Salad: bitter leaves, caper bagna càuda, fried capers Image credit MTotoe.

The Sweet Potato Pepper Mojo, if one must pick, was a standout. Essentially it is a dip to die for. The gentle spicy kick, smooth texture and sprinkling of candied quinoa gives the dish a light crunch and a contrasting sweetness to the spiciness which works an utter treat. Just pass me a vat of the stuff and I’m yours! The white bean confit a more subtle dish but delicious all the same with beautifully seasoned whole white beans atop the garlic houmous and crispy fried sage leaves on top. Then a refreshing touch comes from a combination of ingredients I often make at home of chicory and oranges but with the addition of softened fennel and crispy fried capers (brilliant and something I will be trying at home asap)!

Next, three more small plates. Black Sesame Shiitake Toast: charcoal brioche, cranberry sweet & sour dressing. The two black bricks of toast are ominous looking with just a sprinkling of green thinly sliced spring onion threads on top. We are told to liberally pour the dressing over the toast. The toast had a wonderfully rich mushroom taste, soft on top and with a nice crunchy base. We were both very satisfied with this dish. The Root Chop Croquettes: lime pickle mayonnaise, Szechuan ketchup was slightly too dry inside for our tastes, but the delicious spicy Szechuan ketchup had a great kick to it and was clearly home made with fresh tomatoes. The dish would have perhaps benefited from more the just a spot on each croquette. Lastly the Pan-Fried Dumplings with crispy green chilli oil, black vinegar & soy glaze was probably the least favourite dish, they lacked freshness, and I suspect the edges of the dumplings had perhaps dried out before cooking and the dipping sauce tasted odd.

Black Sesame Shiitake Toast, the Root Chop Croquettes and the Pan-Fried Dumplings. Image credit MTotoe.

Moving onto the large plate of Pakora Masala: mildly spiced tomato & potato curry, okra, winter green parsnip fritters, chive pea pilau rice. We enjoyed the taste of the parsnip immensely and it is a clever use of a British winter root vegetable in an Indian inspired dish. The fritters sat on flavoursome tangy curry with colourful slivers of okra on top.  It was quite spicy which didn’t faze me but might have been too much for others, a small pot of natural yoghurt for those who need it wouldn’t go amiss. We love a dish topped with fried curry leaves and always crave a more generous number of leaves. The rice was fluffy and light with an abundance of fresh herbs.

Pakora Masala: mildly spiced tomato & potato curry, okra, winter green parsnip fritters, chive pea pilau rice. Image credit MTotoe.

The meal was finished off with two small squares of Chocolate Cherry Tahini Truffle of a standard you would find in a boutique chocolatier. A perfect small treat to send you on your merry way.

Alas, I need not have worried about Mallow’s menu combining so many different cuisines. It all works well and they have succeeded in creating many crowd pleasing dishes whether you are vegan or not.

Location: Borough Market: 1 cathedral street, borough market, london, SE1 9DE; and Canary Wharf: 12 park drive, wood wharf, london, E14 9ZW. Instagram: @mallowlondon  Website: mallowlondon.com

Review by Natascha Milsom