Review: The Chalet at the Rosewood London
With no end in sight to London’s dreary rainy weather, we discovered a magnificent antidote - a wonderful alpine-style chalet tucked into the courtyard of the architecturally stunning Rosewood London in Holborn. From the moment you step inside, the outside world seems to melt away, replaced by warmth, intimacy and a sense of escapism that feels far removed from central London.
Image courtesy of Rosewood London
The Chalet opened during the winter months in partnership with luxury ski brand Goldbergh and Singleton Single Malt Scotch Whisky. The space is also a subtle nod to the group’s Rosewood Courchevel Le Jardin Alpin in the French Alps, and the design cleverly channels that sense of refined mountain glamour. The Singleton whiskey guides their distinctive cocktail selection at The Chalet. We tried The Siren’s Song - a beautifully balanced, classy cocktail of whiskey, chestnut, citrus, maple and bitters garnished with a marshmallow, which added a cute and playful touch.
The wood panelled chalet oozes a cosy sophistication with heaters; sheepskin throws and soft blankets and David Baily-style high fashion images lining the walls. Rosewood Hotels are renowned for exceeding expectations, and the arrival of hot water bottles - should we need them - was the kind of thoughtful detail that instantly told us we were in for a memorable experience. Pops of colour come in the form of throw cushions on the banquettes and vibrant dry flower arrangements. Though The Chalet is a pop-up, it feels permanent – and I genuinely wish it was. It’s somewhere I would happily return to regularly. My young daughter thought it would be good spot for night club. Take note, Rosewood London.
Image courtesy of Rosewood London
Our dinner began with dressed oysters - a stunning dish, topped with thermidor sauce, cognac and a sprinkling of panko crumbs. The thermidor sauce was the perfect temperature, and the oyster beneath preserved its clean flesh flavours, honouring the quality of the oyster. The Salad Bleu d'Auvergne Cheese & Pear Salad with smoked almonds was not “just” a salad. The lightly poached pear is a clever touch and the blue cheese cream under the bitter leaves take this salad to the next level – a must order.
The glossy and silky cheese fondue arrived with a soft waft of white wine and garlic,accompanied by a basket of crusty bread and a generous serving of charcuterie and sharp pickles. It was well balanced and ranks among the best fondues I’ve had, and I’ve had a few, having a Swiss mother and having spent four years studying in Switzerland. The amount of cheese was generous for two as we couldn’t quite finish it all and missed out on the thin, crispy, toasted layer of cheese which is normally left at the bottom of the pot- called la religiose (French for “the nun”). There are a couple of charming explanations behind the name. In Swiss and Alpine fondue culture, la religieuse became something of a ritual prize. Whoever managed to detach it cleanly from the pot would often get to eat it, a highly prized, crunchy, intensely flavoured reward. In some traditions, it even came with playful rules or “penalties” (like buying the next bottle of wine if you lost your bread in the pot!). Or in my day, if you lost your bread in the pot you had to pick up the tab. Ouch!
Image courtesy of Rosewood London
We also ordered sides of perfectly salted and buttered greens and a cheesy Reblochon potato gratin with smoked bacon. This made our meal unapologetically cheese-on-cheese and we so nearly ordered the cauliflower cheese too, but I successfully reined my daughter in. The saying “everything tastes better with butter” came to mind - because the same is certainly true of cheese, and there is plenty of it here. The starters include a French Onion Soup which is topped with Gruyere cheese and a Baked Camembert. And I would happily pop in at lunch time for their Raclette Monsieur. When you need comfort food it doesn’t get better than this.
Beyond the indulgent cheese-centric dishes, the menu also offers an excellent European selection, from Toulouse sausages and short ribs to mushroom tortellini, a Tomahawk steak and venison loin with pancetta crumble - dishes I have no doubt taste as good as they sound.
Image courtesy of Rosewood London
We finished on a sweet note of profiteroles with vanilla whipped ganache which were good but not exceptional and in hindsight, we should have gone with the waiter Justin’s recommendation of the Chestnut Mont Blanc. His service throughout the evening was just the right amount of attentive.
There is still the remainder of February to enjoy this perfect winter escape suitable for any occasion but couples cosying up over a bubbling cheese fondue would make for an idyllic romantic evening and with Valentine’s just around the corner this would be an excellent way to celebrate.
Leaving the warm embrace of the Chalet was a jolt to our systems as we stepped back out into the bustle of London’s city life – but it’s an experience that lingers, and one we’ll certainly be returning to.
Location: 252 High Holborn, London WC1V 7EN Opening hours: 12.00pm–10.00pm, Monday to Sunday. Website: rosewoodhotels.com Instagram: @rosewoodlondon
Review by Natascha Milsom
