Archway is a refreshingly gimmick-free and simply charming restaurant and wine bar found cradled beneath a railway arch in Battersea. 

Sue me, but rather than bounding down the Northern line in curiosity, I have avoided Battersea since the opening of the Power Station project. Perhaps due to my loss of the therapy in retail therapy post-pandemic, or the north-of-the-river dweller in me getting a bit too cosy, but either way, I was pleased to be lifted out of my rut by an invitation to wine bar and restaurant Archway. The smug opportunity to collect a new TFL station whilst still swerving BPS crowds may have contributed a smidgen, but pictures of gorgeous ivory panelled beams and drippy tapered candles hooked me in.

Approaching the restaurant from a side street off a busy roundabout, I wondered if I was a little lost whilst looking for the supposedly chic dining spot. My apprehension melted immediately however, on entering the railway arch which plays cradle to Archway: tall black candle-laden lanterns lead the way into a space which immediately warmed my frosty January bones from the inside out. Jazz tinkled through the air accompanying the chinking of cutlery in what struck me as a very well-attended Wednesday night service, and the bright woodwork reaching up to the ceiling of the arch is even more attractive IRL.

The menu poses a handful each of starters and mains with an additional list of pastas, which can work as either. Our first plate was the knock-out of the night: delectably doughy and slightly charred flatbread, artichokes atop cooked with perfect bite and what looked like an over-pouring of tangy olive oil (it was the perfect amount) cut through by indulgent whipped pecorino. I could eat one of those a day. We also enjoyed the squid ink risotto as a starter – less memorable, but albeit a tasty seafood and rice dish.

The pasta list offered a niche shape to add to my repertoire, not an opportunity to turn down – maltagliati, which I believe means ‘badly cut’ arrived as generous rhombus pasta shapes sandwiching little morsels of smoky aubergine, sheltered by shredded smoked ricotta. Traditionally a hearty and comforting sauce, this alla norma was both, but also showed off skill in blending smoky flavours without overdoing it. For our final main, lured by the mention of porcini butter sauce, we opted for the halibut. I’m not always convinced by mushrooms with fish but the richness of the butter wrapped together the flavours of sea and earth, giving credit and praise to a quality piece of fish.

Our approachable and attentive waiter poured the last drop of our peachy Ikigall as she brought over the dessert menu. Feeling rather satiated I thought the bamboloni sounded sensible, assuming the dessert to be of the bite-sized variety. I quickly learned not to trust my non-existent Italian - three rather large but glistening doughnuts stuffed with salted caramel cream soon arrived teaching me that there is nothing ‘mini’ about ‘bamboloni’. Hints of rosemary within the caramel just saved the pud from being sickly-sweet, the fragrance adding a lightness that allowed us to do it justice. Obviously the obligatory tiramisu test was also necessary and unsurprisingly there was no disappointment in that department.

Its interiors are worth the visit alone, but in its entirety Archway is refreshingly gimmick-free and simply charming.

Location: Archway Battersea, Arch 65 Queen's Circus, Nine Elms, London SW8 4NE. Website: archwaybattersea.co.uk. Instagram: @archwaybattersea.

 Words by Lucy Firestone